How Ya Dough’n? in Boca, A Pandemic Pizza Dream Realized

It’s always a great feeling to stumble upon really good pizza when you least expect it. And when you dig into the story behind the place, finding your passion, believing enough in yourself to take that leap of faith, and that dream is brought to life, it makes the entire experience even better.

How ya Dough’n? in Boca Raton is one of those finds.

While looking into my next stop in my ongoing search for standout pizza around Delray Beach, I wanted something outside the normal go-to spots. A bit of research led me to a place I’d never heard of. Several online reviews were glowing, yet it had never once come up in any of my Facebook pizza groups. Huh? That made me even more curious. Was this place legit?

How ya Dough’n? was launched during COVID by husband and wife and proud parents, Garrett and Gaby Goodman, after a friend suggested they try a Gozney pizza oven. Neither had any culinary experience. Both were working remotely and simply loved making pizza. What started as experimenting with sourdough starter and baking pies in their backyard for family quickly grew to include friends, then strangers, and eventually the “I gotta get out of my house syndrome” led to people reserving pies online, upwards of 100 per week. The backyard operation thrived until their HOA stepped in with a cease-and-desist order (which now hangs proudly in the shop).

So what to do? They embraced the moment, adopted the playful name How ya Dough’n?, and opened a storefront in Boca Raton’s Spanish River area.

The shop itself is modest, a small, almost hidden storefront in a strip mall at North Federal Highway and NE 42nd Street. When you walk in, the ordering counter is directly ahead, with the prep area and ovens behind it. To the right is a cooler stocked with sodas, water, and juices, and to the left, an even more modest seating area with two tables (seating six guests) plus six counter stools overlooking the kitchen. How ya Dough’n? still clearly focuses on takeout, continuing the tradition from their backyard days.

The ingredients are all high-end, low-acid New Jersey tomatoes for the sauce, locally sourced mozzarella delivered in whole blocks, soppressata from Chicago, and a custom-blend local sausage. Everything is made from scratch.

With that in mind, I ordered a 12-inch pie with half pepperoni and half sausage. The counter person told me a soda from the fridge was included in the price.

As I sat at my table, their dark blue How ya Dough’n? van pulled up. When the side door opened, I watched as hundreds of dough balls, resting neatly in plastic bins, were carefully unloaded and carried into the shop by the dozen. They were clearly expecting a large volume of orders that day.

When my pizza arrived, I was immediately impressed.

The first thing I noticed was the crust. I was airy, marked by large bubbles, promising a light bite. The width of the outer crust was wide, perhaps wider than I would have preferred, as it would reduce the area for the toppings. The pepperoni circles were plentiful, most had cupped in the oven and were holding little pools of oil. The sausage was almost hidden, tucked beneath the cheese. The mozzarella looked fresh and the sauce was evenly applied. A look at the underside showed more charring than expected.

I initially tore off a piece of crust. As anticipated, it was light and airy with a wonderful sourdough tang and a fantastic crisp. I was concerned that the charring might cause some bitterness. I hoped that would take a back seat in a full bite.

Next, I sampled the sausage. It delivered a solid kick, about a six out of ten on the spice scale, with a lingering afterglow on the palate. The pepperoni followed suit, it had a nice level of spiciness. I really liked both meats.

Time for the real test: a full slice.

I started with the sausage side. The crust was sturdy enough to hold the toppings with just a slight flop at the point. The first bite was excellent, and I nearly devoured the slice. The sauce was outstanding, the fresh mozzarella equally impressive, and the sausage added great flavor. My earlier concern about it being sparse proved unfounded; it was exactly right.

On to the pepperoni side. Like the sausage half, the balance was on point. The cupped pepperoni added bursts of spice that melded beautifully with the cheese and sauce. Each bite delivered a satisfying crunch from the crust and a wonderful blend of flavors.

The only drawback was the over-char on the crust. While both halves were delicious, that slight bitterness from the underside kept the pizza from reaching its full potential. With a lighter bake, it could have been truly spectacular.

How ya Dough’n? is a testament to what passion, quality ingredients, and a willingness to take a leap can create. From backyard beginnings to bustling storefronts, their commitment to craft was evident in every bite. The balance of sauce, cheese, and toppings is impressive, and the sourdough crust delivered great texture and flavor. While a lighter bake would have elevated it even further, this is still a very strong pie that’s absolutely worth seeking out.

4251 N Federal Hwy

Boca Raton, FL 33431

(561) 617-1579

howyadoughn.com

Why Pasta And (Margate) Sets the Standard for Italian Dining in South Florida

When a restaurant delivers an exceptional experience, it deserves enthusiastic praise. What may have been the best meal I’ve ever enjoyed in Florida fell on my birthday, making it even more memorable. Pasta And in Margate achieved perfection in every aspect: atmosphere, service, and most importantly, the food. It is a special place defined by outstanding hospitality and remarkable cuisine.

With three of us celebrating, we decided to order generously. Guided by our server, we enjoyed a multi-course journey that showcased the kitchen’s range and finesse in this centuries-old Piedmontese cuisine.

We began with two appetizers. The first was an off-menu suggestion from the server (thank you) that instantly secured its place among my top ten dishes of all time, Bison Tartare with poached egg and black truffles. A large, cylindrical mound of impeccably seasoned chopped bison was crowned with a poached egg and generously adorned with slices of black truffle. The bison was surprisingly mild and paired with some of the finest truffles I’ve ever tasted, the dish transcended description. Those opening bites were moments I will remember forever. And set the tone for the evening.

Next came the Caprese di Burrata. The burrata was exceptional, its delicate outer shell encased an irresistibly creamy center. It was joined on the plate with generous slices of sweet, ripe tomatoes, fragrant basil leaves, and finished with a drizzle of balsamic. The balance of the creamy burrata, the sweet tomatoes and the freshness of the basil were flawless.

We then moved to three distinctly different pastas, each memorable in its own way.

Our favorite was the Pappardelle al Sugo di Cinghiale. This timeless preparation started with long strands of house-made egg pappardelle covered with a rich, deeply flavored sauce studded with tender shreds of boar. We carefully twirled the silky pasta around our forks and carefully added a generous portion of meat to enjoy this traditional classic. The combination was outstanding; each bite delivered comforting richness and depth. The luxurious sauce elevated the dish, making this time-honored preparation over-the-top delicious.

The boldest of the trio was the Agnolotti di Carne al Sugo di Brasato al Barolo. House-made pasta parcels, stuffed with beef, pork, and rabbit, were served in a deeply savory braised meat sauce. This was not a dish for the faint of heart, each bite was intense, hearty, and deeply satisfying, with soft textures and pronounced flavors. For those seeking richness and complexity, this dish delivered in full.

On the more aromatic end of Piedmontese cuisine was the Ravioli Romagnola al Burro, Salvia e Salsiccia. Filled with pumpkin and amaretti, the ravioli were dressed in a butter and sage sauce and finished with a sprinkling of sausage. The pumpkin filling was outstanding, rich and velvety, and paired beautifully with the subtle sweet nuttiness of the amaretti. While the butter and sage sauce would have been perfect on its own, the addition of sausage elevated the dish to another level.

For the entrées, we selected two very different preparations.

The first dish was the Ossobuco alla Milanese (photo above), the classic veal shank presented upright atop a bed of saffron risotto. The risotto was excellent, with just the right resistance and a fragrant saffron aroma and flavor. The slowly braised veal shank itself was tender, moist, and effortlessly fell from the bone, clearly treated with great care in the kitchen. My only disappointment was the portion size of the shank, which felt a bit light on the amount of meat in my portion, it left me wanting more.

The second entrée was the Branzino con Salsa di Limone e Vegetali, served with lemon sauce and mixed vegetables. A large swath of buttery lemon sauce formed the base and was first topped with sautéed tomatoes, zucchini, and beans, and then finished with two beautifully sautéed branzino fillets. The fish had a delicate crispness to the exterior that gave way to soft, moist flesh, cooked to perfection. The bright sauce complemented the fish beautifully, while the vegetables added sweetness and earthiness. This was one of the best fish preparations imaginable, simply focused on letting the ingredients shine.

We finished the meal with luscious Tiramisu and a decadent chocolate bombe. Both were exceptional.

Pasta And was an experience rather than merely celebrating a birthday at a restaurant. Every element of the evening felt thoughtfully refined, from the guidance of our server to the kitchen’s unwavering respect for ingredients and tradition. The menu balanced reverence for classic Piedmontese preparations with moments of indulgent creativity, resulting in dishes that were both deeply comforting and quietly thrilling. The evening reminded me why dining out can still feel special, why a meal can linger in your memory long after the plates are cleared. Celebrating my birthday here was a stroke of good fortune. Pasta And is not just one of the finest meals I’ve had in Florida, it is a restaurant I will return to with anticipation, confidence, and high expectations, knowing they will almost certainly be met.

4990 W Atlantic Blvd

Margate, FL 33063

954.977.3708

http://www.pastaand.com

From East Harlem to Boca: The Patsy’s Pizza Legacy Is Outstanding

Patsy’s. Grimaldi’s. Juliana’s, names synonymous with great New York City pizza. Separate by design but connected through a fascinating and tangled history.

The story begins in 1933, when Pasquale “Patsy” Lancieri and his wife, Carmella, opened the original Patsy’s Pizzeria on First Avenue in East Harlem. It was one of the first pizzerias in New York City to bake pies in a coal-fired oven, was among the first to sell pizza by the slice, and legend has it that it was one of Frank Sinatra’s favorites. After Lancieri’s death in 1991, the restaurant was sold to Frank Brija and longtime employees, ensuring the original location would continue its coal-fired tradition.

In the mid-1940s, Pasquale and Carmella’s fourteen-year-old nephew, Patsy Grimaldi, began his apprenticeship at Patsy’s Pizzeria’s First Avenue location. Decades later, in 1990, the younger Patsy opened his own pizzeria under the Brooklyn Bridge on Old Fulton Street in Brooklyn. There, he installed the first coal-fired pizza oven in NYC in more than fifty years. As a result of a lawsuit from the owners of the East Harlem Patsy’s, he was forced to rename his Brooklyn location to Grimaldi’s. In the late 1990’s, Patsy Grimaldi sold the Grimaldi’s name and business to restaurateur Frank Ciolli and retired.

But the story didn’t end there. In 2011, Grimaldi’s was forced to relocate from its Old Fulton Street address to a nearby space on Front Street. One year later, Patsy Grimaldi came out of retirement and reclaimed his original Old Fulton Street location, opening Juliana’s, named in honor of his mother. Grimaldi passed away in 2025, having devoted nearly eighty years to crafting some of the finest pizza in New York City.

Today, multiple restaurants across New York City, operating under different names, trace their lineage back to these two Patsys, the original 1933 coal-fired oven in East Harlem and a family’s enduring love for authentic New York pizza. The Boca Raton location, opened in 2025, is owned by Frank Brija, the same Frank Brija who purchased the original East Harlem Patsy’s in 1991.

When I heard that Patsy’s from Brooklyn had opened a satellite location in Boca Raton, I had to try it. The restaurant sits in downtown Boca on Plaza Real South, just southeast of the Federal Highway and East Palmetto Park Road intersection. There are numerous outdoor tables perfect for people-watching, and inside, a long bar stretches across the back of the dining area. The entire left wall is devoted to pizza, with the prep-area front and center, guarding the specialized, dual-fuel pizza oven. The oven floor is heated by gas, while the top heat is powered by coal, a throwback to its 1933 origins and one of the main reasons the pizza is outstanding.

I grabbed a small table outside and took in the scene. As I scanned the menu and spotted the legendary Patsy’s name, I couldn’t help but reflect. Nearly a century ago, a couple in East Harlem risked everything with little more than a coal oven, a recipe and sheer determination. Their nephew carried that torch under the Brooklyn Bridge. And here I was, far removed from those gritty New York streets, sitting in the polished setting of Boca, a complete contrast, yet connected by the same pizza lineage. The differences weren’t lost on me, I hoped I would taste the love and history when the pizza arrived.

I ordered an Original, with sausage on one half and pepperoni on the other.

When it hit the table, I was impressed. The sauce extended almost to the edge, leaving just a small border of beautifully charred crust from the coal fire. The sauce itself was a deep, rich red, applied generously but not excessively. The cheese was evenly layered, and the toppings were abundant without being overdone, hearty chunks of sausage and curled slices of pepperoni with a touch of oil in many of them.

I started with a piece from the sausage side. On its own, the sausage surprised me, it was milder than expected, with less fennel than I typically prefer. Next, I sampled a pepperoni cup, complete with its pooled oil. It was the complete polar opposite, bold, spicy, and assertive, perhaps even a touch too spicy for my usual taste. I wondered how each would meld with the other components in a full bite.

I next checked the underside, and it was perfectly baked, lightly charred, thin, crisp with hints of charring. I took a full bite of the sausage slice first. It was pizza heaven. The crust crunched, the sauce delivered deep tomato richness, the cheese added luscious creaminess, and the sausage tied it all together beautifully. Any initial hesitation with the sausage vanished completely. In combination, the sausage slice was perfectly balanced. It was one of the finest sausage slices I’ve ever had.

Then came the pepperoni slice. The crust, sauce, and cheese provided the same flawless foundation, but the pepperoni transformed the experience entirely. Its spiciness kicked in and challenged the palate. If the sausage side felt like a long, warm hug, the pepperoni side was an enthusiastic slap on the back, wake up and savor it. Though I’m not typically drawn to spicy pizza, this slice was fantastic.

With each slice, my smile grew wider. I was sitting in what felt like pizza royalty, even sitting in South Florida. Before leaving, I made sure to thank the pizzaiolos. They stood proudly in front of their oven, gracious and welcoming, guardians of a nearly century-old tradition that continues to thrive, one coal-kissed pie at a time.

114 Plaza Real S Boca Raton, FL 33432

(561) 334-2553

patsyspizzaflorida.com

Same Owners, New Name, Great Pizza at Sole Mio (Boynton Beach)

We had always enjoyed Nicoletta’s in Boynton Beach, so a few weeks ago, we were disappointed when we tried to order delivery through DoorDash, and it was not listed.

We were recently back in the neighborhood looking for a quick bite and decided to see if another restaurant had taken over their space. As we approached, we saw a new sign above the door, with the name of the new restaurant, Sole Mio. When we stepped inside, we were pleasantly surprised to see some familiar faces. It turned out to be a rebranding, with the same owners and a few thoughtful changes to the menu. With that reassurance, ordering a pizza felt like an easy choice.

We sat on the patio and ordered a Margherita pizza. While we waited, the owner graciously answered a few questions and explained two details that set their pizza apart. The dough was made with house-ground flour, incorporating semolina and a touch of whole grain, and the house-made mozzarella included a touch of white cheddar.

When the pizza arrived, it was immediately clear we were in for a delicious lunch. The pie looked fantastic and tasted even better. The crust was light, airy, and flavorful, with a subtle sweetness. As we pulled the slices apart, there was just a slight stretch. One bite was enough to remind us why we had enjoyed this place. The house-made sauce was rich and deeply flavored, applied generously, and the cheese, enhanced by that hint of cheddar, was excellent. A scattering of chiffonade of fresh basil finished the pie, adding a lovely earthy note.

Overall, our quick stop at Sole Mio was great, and we’re looking forward to returning to explore more of their menu.

8794 Boynton Beach Blvd.

Boynton Beach, FL 33472

(561) 740-4044

solemiokitchenbar.com

When the Name Sets the Bar Too High: Ah-Beetz Delray Beach Reviewed

It was time to try Ah-Beetz in Delray Beach.

When the owners chose to name their pizzeria Ah-Beetz, they invoked revered New Haven institutions and automatically set customer expectations at an extremely high level, and rightly so. They are calling upon storied traditions, and they better be prepared to deliver.

For those who have never lived in the greater New Haven area, ah-beetz is the historically correct pronunciation of apizza, a style first produced in coal ovens in New Haven, Connecticut, by immigrants from Naples, Italy, at the turn of the 20th century. With legendary institutions like Pepe’s and Sally’s approaching their 100th anniversaries, the standards they demand carry enormous weight. That legacy is what led me to visit Ah-Beetz in Delray. Several people have raved about Ah-Beetz in Delray, while a few warned me, I might be disappointed.

Ah-Beetz is located on the east side of Jog Road between Linton and Atlantic. I stopped in for an early solo lunch, grabbed a booth, and glanced over the menu. I already knew what I planned to order, though my menu-perusing habit was hard to break. When the server approached, I ordered a small Traditional Mootz and asked if I could have sausage on one-half. She was kind enough to mention that the sausage was crumbled, my least favorite style, so I switched to pepperoni.

It was before the lunch rush, so the restaurant was empty at that time of day, but I could easily imagine the chaotic din during peak hours, with people ordering, waiting, and shmoozing as each apizza is prepared and baked.

When my apizza arrived, it looked very well made, but…. The edges were too airy for a traditional ah beetz, but it did have nice char in several spots. A quick peek underneath revealed a good level of char as well, not too much, just enough to suggest a proper New Haven influence.

The toppings were applied generously, a good amount of sauce, cheese, and pepperoni, without any cupping on the latter, with some pooling of oil atop the cheese and a sprinkling of grated cheese as the finishing touch. When I pulled the first slice, a few strands of cheese stretched back to the pie, another good sign. At that moment, I thought this was going to be a very good pie.

I started by breaking off a piece of the crust. While it had a good flavor, it was too airy for New Haven ah beetz. Then I pulled a slice away and tried to lift, and that’s where things began to unravel. The first issue was the lack of sturdiness. While the edge was crisp, the center was noticeably soft, bordering on soggy, an early indication of too much sauce. The first bite confirmed it. The sauce was heavily applied, with a flavor closer to tomato paste than the light, fragrant sauce I had hoped for, and there was way too much oregano. The cheese, though nicely melted, was more pungent than I preferred, and the sogginess of the crust was a further distraction. I wasn’t enamored with the cheese slice.

I hoped the pepperoni side would minimally redeem the lunch. The pepperoni provided a decent level of spice, and the edges had a pleasant crunch, but again, the overall balance could not offset the disappointing oregano-ladened tomato sauce that remained at center stage.

Overall, I was really looking forward to Ah-Beetz reminding me of those great New Haven apizza joints back home in Connecticut. While I wasn’t expecting it to match the legendary establishments I’ve visited and written about over the years, I did expect the fundamentals to be present. The dough showed promise, but the sauce missed badly, the cheese was over applied, and the finished product simply didn’t live up to the name. Even with the limited options in this part of Florida, I’d struggle to justify a return visit. I was hoping for much better.

15220 S Jog Rd.

Delray Beach, FL 33446

(561) 908-2466

ah-beetz.com

Blistered Crusts and Bold Sausage at GG’s Wood Fired Pizza in Milford

I continue to work my way through the CT Pizza Trail’s top 100, checking off the spots I’ve missed, and finally visited GG’s Wood Fired Pizza in Milford. I must have driven past this bright red roadside building on the Boston Post Road a hundred times. It’s impossible to miss with its bold sign emblazoned with two flaming “G”s and an apostrophe shaped like a pizza slice. Yet somehow, it had never occurred to me to stop. I had no idea they were serving ultra-charred, wood-fired pizza out of a blazing hot oven.

On a quiet midweek afternoon, we headed to GG’s, an easy venture since it sits right at the bottom of the Milford Connector. There is parking wrapped around the building and an extra lot tucked behind the small strip mall to the left, likely more useful once the neighboring shops close for the day.

GG’s serves thin-crust pizza baked in a Mugnaini wood-fired oven that can reach a scorching 1,000 degrees. Their dough starts with 00 flour and a sponge-like mother, then ferments for forty-eight hours to develop depth and a delicate texture. The sauce is made from certified DOP San Marzano tomatoes, giving it a natural, beautiful sweetness. After assembling each pie with cheese and any requested toppings, the pizzas are quickly baked in the blazing wood-fired oven where the intense heat creates the signature charring and blistering on the crust.

Upon entering, you have two options, go left into the bar, with a handful of stools and five high-top tables, or head right, into the rear dining room. The dining area has six booths plus additional tables that can seat another thirty guests.

GG’s offers plenty of traditional Italian dishes, plus pizzas, offered in both a small and a large size, and we stayed focused, a large cheese pizza with sausage on half. Being midweek, it arrived quickly and was placed on a raised metal stand. First impression was that the “large” leaned more toward a medium by CT standards, and it was molten hot.

The next things I noticed were the generous chunks of sausage, my favorite style, and that one side of the crust was more charred (maybe over-charred) than the other, suggesting it skipped the usual mid-bake spin. I peeked underneath and was impressed, numerous spots of char with the rest a beautiful golden brown. It had spent the right amount of time in the oven. It was still blazing hot, so we waited a little longer to avoid scorching the roofs of our mouths on bubbling cheese.

It was time to dive in. I grabbed and tasted one of the large chunks of sausage, it was outstanding, one of the best around. It would unquestionably be the star of that half. I decided to start with a cheese slice. As I pulled it from the pie, long strands of cheese stretched, always a good sign. It looked like the crust wasn’t sturdy enough to fully support the toppings, so I eased the slice onto the plate. The first bite was excellent. The standout was the sauce, naturally sweet from the San Marzano tomatoes, with the cheese adding just enough tang to complement it. The crust contributed a subtle flavor and light texture without being overly crunchy. It was a very well-executed slice.

Now onto the sausage side. The sausage dominated the flavor and created a completely different experience. The sausage was so bold and the chunks so large, it almost distracted from the delicious DOP sauce. In thinking about the combination, maybe if the chunks of sausage were smaller, it would have given a better balance to also enjoy the crust, sauce and cheese.

Overall, GG’s proved worthy of being included as a member of the CT Pizza Trail. The combination of long-fermented dough, bright San Marzano sauce, and high-heat blistering produced a pie that was very good. The cheese side was excellent, and while the sausage portion could have benefited from slightly smaller pieces for better balance, the flavor itself was fantastic, and both halves of the pizza delivered distinct, memorable flavors.

591 Boston Post Rd, Milford, CT 06460

(203) 876-8000

ggwoodfiredpizza.com

A Deep Dive into Domenick’s & Vinnie’s Half-Sausage, Half-Pepperoni Pie

My latest excursion into the great CT pizza offerings took me to Middlebury, CT, north of I-84 to Dominick’s & Vinnie’s, who proudly proclaim, “we serve only one item: pizza, in all its various forms.”

Domenick’s & Vinnie’s is a family-owned destination that has been satisfying the greater Waterbury area at three different locations for over 75 years,. The original location in Waaterbury was opened in 1949 and the family later expanded, first to Middlebury and subsequently to Southington. The restaurant’s recipe dates back to the owners’ roots in Castelpaganica, Italy in a province known particularly for its superb cuisine, with all sauces and doughs made fresh daily, as well as their house-made meatballs and sausage.

The Middlebury location is located in a strip mall at 1625 Straits Turnpike, and I drove right by the entrance to the mall. I circled around, followed the “trucks only” sign and eventually pulled up in front of the restaurant. The basic white concrete building sports a white sign with the D&V logo and very light-fonted “Domenick’s & Vinnies’s,” you need to look hard to find it the first time.

Once you open the doors and enter the world of Domenick’s and Vinnie’s, it is a completely different experience, it is visual overload, with seating for 100 people in booths and tables in a bright and airy dining area. As you make your way to the back counter, your eyes are drawn to the sheer size of the open kitchen, it is enormous. On the entire right wall of the kitchen, extending over twenty feet from the counter to the rear, were ten pizza ovens, five double-stacked columns; how many pizzas could D&V produce on a busy night? And in the middle of the kitchen was an equally massive pizza prep area. On a lazy weekend afternoon, there were already three pizza makers busy preparing pizzas for in-house guests and takeaway orders.

I ordered my normal half-sausage, half-pepperoni, and took a seat.

This open and bright dining area was very different from the other pizza places I have visited in CT, where they are part of a neighborhood, or my eating a pie in the parking lot because of limited seating, or a dining area that felt more from the 1950’s or 60’s, D&V’s Middlebury location was large, open and bright. My expectations were very high for the product.

When my order was brought to my table, it looked as good as any pizza I have ever seen. The sauce and topping almost reached the edges, which had just a few char marks, and limited poof. Visually it was a 10, and the aroma hit my nose “like a big pizza pie…”

I pulled a little piece of the crust and tasted it. First, the texture was denser than I prefer, it was neither a crispy crack crust, nor a soft rendition, and the flavor was pretty good. My next stop was a slice of the pepperoni. The edges were crispy (positive #1), the slices were thicker than many others (positive #2), which allowed for a softness that I really liked (positive #3) and then the spice level kicked in, it was on the higher end of the spiciness scale, maybe a 7-8. If you like a spicier pepperoni, this will please you. Onto the sausage side and it was much milder, the kitchen was generous with the amount of crumbled pieces (my preference), they were still juicy and soft, and I was a big fan immediately.

When I looked at the underside, it had a nice medium tan with just a few char marks, the kitchen did a great job in the prep and baking. Now for the big test. Given the spiciness of the pepperoni, I started with a sausage slice. As I pulled the slice, the cheese clung in long strands, there was a good amount of cheese and sauce. The flavors were great, the sauce had a deep tomato-ey freshness and there was just a hint of tang in the cheese, each played well with the fennel-laced sausage. The toppings were a 10 on the sausage side.

Onto the pepperoni side with its added spiciness. For me, it was a little too spicy, for others, it may be perfect; it was hard for me, since I am not a huge fan of that level of spice. After a few bites I needed a plan B and I gently removed some of the pepperoni to taste a “plain” slice; it was more aligned with my strike zone, and I enjoyed that very much.

Overall, Dominick’s & Vinny’s has a great pie; the sauce, cheese and sausage were excellent, for those who like a big kick in the pepperoni, you will probably enjoy that as well. As I have found with a few other places recently, I struggled with the texture of the crust, others will enjoy the denseness and chewiness more than I did. I strongly recommend a visit to Dominick’s and Vinnie’s, over 75 years at three locations tells you the people love the product.

1625 Straits Turnpike

Middlebury, CT 06762

203-758-8846

Tipsy Tomato in Derby: The Unexpected Stop That Won Me Over

I’ve added another satisfying notch to my pizza belt and one more stop checked off the CT Pizza Trail.

Tipsy Tomato sits tucked in the corner of a strip mall along Route 34, halfway between Routes 8 and 15. I know that sounds a bit vague, but once you find the right plaza (think Big Y), the next challenge is locating the entrance, which is slightly hidden from view, two nondescript doors next to the pet store. When you approach, you might wonder if the interior is too small to seat adventurous pizza addicts, but step inside and your worries will immediately vanish. There’s an “S” shaped bar immediately to the left with a dozen stools, tables for another two dozen guests, and in the rear is a spacious dining room that seats dozens more. Anchoring it all is “pizza central,” an open kitchen where you can watch the stretch-top-bake ballet unfold right before your eyes.

Tipsy Tomato isn’t a one-trick pony, focused exclusively on pizza. The menu is generous, featuring both hot and cold appetizers, classic chicken, eggplant, and meatball entrées, a full lineup of pastas, and the three S’s, soups, salads, and sandwiches. Their pizza section proclaims it serves “New Haven Apizza” as the style of choice (I’ll share my thoughts on that claim a bit later), with pies offered in two sizes, plus gluten-free and cauliflower crust options available. Beyond the basics of sauce and cheese, there are thirty different toppings ready to be mixed and matched to satisfy every desire.

For my order, I kept things classic, a small pie, half plain for tradition’s sake, and the other half adorned with sausage and pepperoni.

I grabbed a seat at one of the bar’s high-top tables and caught a bit of mid-day TV. When the pizza arrived, my first impression was that it leaned more toward a New Jersey bar-style pie than a traditional New Haven apizza. The crust was minimal and less airy than what you’d enjoy down on Wooster Street. The sauce and cheese stretched nearly to the edge, reminiscent of that classic Jersey bar pie. The toppings were generous, a good layer of sauce, a large amount of melted cheese, hearty chunks of sausage, and crisp rounds of pepperoni. It looked ladened, but well balanced. A quick glance underneath revealed a firm, golden-brown base, crisp and sturdy enough to support the generous toppings without sag or flop.

As the pizza cooled, I started with the meats. The sausage came in large chunks, which was my preference and offered a nice balance of flavor, with a touch of fennel notes and a moderate spiciness. Each chunk delivered a satisfying bite. The pepperoni slices followed suit, bringing a slightly bolder level of heat, which played well with the cheese and sauce.

I pulled the first slice from the plain side, and strands of cheese stretched and clung to the pie, a promising start. The slice held firm with no flop, and that first bite included a generous amount of cheese approaching, but not crossing, the line of “too much.” The sauce was bright and rich in tomato goodness, and the crispy crust was a perfect counterpart. The plain slice was delicious.

Then onto the meat-laden side. My first bite was a large chunk of sausage, soft in texture, rich in flavor, with a pleasant little after-burn of spice. The next bite caught some pepperoni, equally satisfying with its sharper heat. And finally, the grand finale, crust, sauce, cheese, sausage, and pepperoni all came together in harmony. The balance was spot-on, sweet, savory, spicy, and crunchy, an excellent turbo-combo slice.

I walked in skeptical and walked out converted. I left Tipsy Tomato with a smile and a reminder that great pizza doesn’t always come from the places everyone talks about. Tipsy Tomato isn’t loud or flashy, but it delivers the kind of honest, satisfying pizza that makes the search worthwhile. Each stop on my ongoing journey to find great pizza in CT has a story, and this one reminded me of the adage, “don’t judge a book by its cover.”

Tipsy Tomato Bar and Pizzeria

656 New Haven Ave.

Derby, CT 06418

203.732.7931

Beyond Wooster Street: One6Three Delivers Big Flavor in East Rock

My Connecticut pizza journey continued in New Haven’s East Rock neighborhood with a visit to One6Three – The Pizza Joint, which is nearing its 10th anniversary.

Located on the corner of Foster and Willow, One6Three has been on my radar for a while, thanks to a lot of positive feedback from my pizza buddies. Driving through East Rock felt like stepping back into my own childhood, lots of two-family homes on tree-lined streets and you could feel the sense of community. It was this type of neighborhood that molded my love of Italian food and great New Jersey pizza.

One6Three occupies a small storefront. Outside, six tables with twelve chairs line the sidewalk. Inside, five beautiful handmade red oak-topped tables with ten chairs fill the dining space, joined by five barstools facing the wood-burning brick oven. I can easily imagine the Saturday-night energy, locals shooting the breeze over their pies, others waiting for takeout, the oven blazing nonstop. The open kitchen dominates much of the interior. While the menu includes non-pizza selections like wings, salads, sandwiches, and sides, the heart of One6Three is unmistakably its pizza, with plenty of preset combinations.

On a first visit, I always order the basics to evaluate the fundamentals: crust, sauce, cheese, and technique, plus my go-to toppings of pepperoni and sausage. I ordered a small (13″) half-sausage, half-pepperoni.

When the pie arrived, I was surprised. The menu proudly declares, “A LOCAL, FAMILY-OWNED JOINT THAT SERVES UP CLASSIC NEW HAVEN STYLE PIZZA…” but what sat before me resembled more of a NJ bar pie than the New Haven style you find a mile away on Wooster Street. The sauce and cheese stretched to all the edges, there was very little, if any, char, more a la Colony or Riko. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good bar pie (I am from NJ), and this one looked great, but I was expecting a pie that was more Wooster-esque.

Respecting the roof of my mouth, I let it cool while inhaling the aroma. I first pulled a piece of crust away and I will return to my feelings a little later. Then I tried the quarter-sized pepperoni, which was delicious, with crisped edges, the right punch of spice and terrific flavor. The crumbled sausage followed suit, it was delicious as well, and delivered a good level of spiciness without overwhelming, about the same level of spiciness as the pepperoni. Neither was overpowering. Things were trending upward.

The cooling process was complete, and I lifted a slice to check the underside, a nice golden tan, with no charring at all, more aligned with a bar presentation. The lift test proved that this was not a stiff cracker crust with just a little flop at the tip, so far this was a really well-constructed pie.

Then came the real test.

The first bite of the pepperoni slice was divine. The sauce and cheese worked in perfect harmony with the pepperoni, spicy, sweet, creamy, stretchy, and balanced. On the sausage side, I initially worried the topping looked sparse compared to the pepperoni. But one taste proved me wrong, just enough to add that bit of spiciness and meat depth. Again, the balance of the cheese and sauce was amazing. While the toppings were out of this world, the crust didn’t shine in the same way. From my first taste at the edge, something felt missing. It held up well, but it just sorta missed and didn’t match the excellence of the toppings, sauce, and cheese. One6Three sits just beyond the bullseye of New Haven’s pizza mecca, in a neighborhood that reminded me of simpler times, when two slices and a soda cost under a buck. Inside, I immediately felt that community vibe, a father and son sharing a pie, a dude in motorcycle gear with a long white beard grabbing a pie. It’s a neighborhood spot in every sense, and I loved that. The warmth of the space, the sense of community, and the superb execution of a true bar-style pie make it a destination worth seeking out. If you’re looking to avoid the long Wooster Street lines without sacrificing quality, One6Three is absolutely worth the visit.

163 Foster St, New Haven, CT 06511

 (203) 777-5141

one6threect.com

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Roseland Apizza: Preserving Connecticut’s Pizza Legacy Since 1935

I ordered a pizza, they delivered an apizza, and they called it ah-beetz.

Pizza lovers in Connecticut know exactly what the word apizza means, and they also know that one of the best (if not the best) versions in the entire state is found at Roseland Apizza in Derby. On a recent Saturday night, we joined some friends and made the pilgrimage to the neighborhood that has had the privilege of protecting this pizza icon. We sampled three distinct combinations, each with three distinct personalities and three different tastes, all sharing one undeniable theme: perfection.

Before diving into our visit, it’s worth appreciating Roseland’s roots. The story begins in 1935, when Giovanni “John” Scatolini, an Italian immigrant, opened a bakery and grocery store in neighboring Ansonia. He originally baked bread in a coal-fired oven in his backyard; a tradition he carried with him when he moved the business to Derby in 1938. World War II brought a family tragedy to the Scatolini family, when John’s son, Reno, was killed in the Battle of the Bulge in 1944.

The story of the pizzeria may have ended at this point if not for the intervention of John’s daughter, Lina Lucarelli. While only a teenager at the time, Lina used her unique entrepreneurial talents over the next seventy-plus years, lovingly guiding Roseland as its irreplaceable heart and soul. Born in Montebello, Italy, Lina emigrated to the U.S. at the age of seven to escape Mussolini’s Italy, and she eventually worked beside her husband, Nazzareno “Bocci” Lucarelli, at Roseland until his passing in 1980. When Lina passed in 2016, Roseland shared this touching and simple tribute, “She had the insight to turn a simple bakery into a beloved hometown pizza establishment at just the age of 15. Through five generations, our family has continued to push out pies and will continue to do so for generations to come.” To this day, Roseland is still family-run, a Derby institution and a proud pillar of Connecticut’s apizza heritage for nearly a century. An incredible story of dedication, perseverance and a matriarch like none other.

When we arrived around 4:45 p.m., the parking lot was already full, and even street parking was getting tight. Inside the unassuming front entrance, a whiteboard handled the seating process. Each group added their name and party size to the bottom of the list, and one by one, names were crossed off as smiling groups are escorted to their table. We added our name to the bottom of the list and settled in for the customary wait, in our case, about fifty minutes.

Roseland’s interior is classic and cozy, two rooms, a main dining area with booths and tables, plus a smaller side room to handle the larger groups. A giant chalkboard spans the back wall, listing daily specials, beer options, and, of course, Foxon Park sodas. Every other square inch of the walls is dedicated to the loving memories of the Lucarelli family, its extended family, and the friends who have enjoyed thousands of pizzas that have emerged from the 90+ year-old coal-fired ovens.

Once we slid into our booth, we were instantly transported back to a simpler time, when families spent Saturday evenings enjoying a relaxed meal at their local dining spots. We watched as friends greeted each other with hugs, and everyone seemed to know everyone else’s family news, it was the place where good conversation and great food took center stage. Our server brought over the essentials, the plastic-encased menus, napkins, silverware, and, in the tradition of Roseland, four mismatched melamine dinner plates, all part of the charm. The menu offerings were simple and classic Italian, one side of the menu included appetizers, grinders, salads, and pasta and parm dinners, while the other side was entirely dedicated to pizza. Interestingly, about three-quarters of the pizza section featured white pies (no sauce), loaded with seafood, chicken, or vegetables. The smaller top section listed the classic red pie, simple and straightforward.

We ordered two pies, a classic apizza with light garlic, and a half-and-half pie, cheese on one half, with sausage and pepperoni on the other. Naturally, we paired them with bottles of Foxon Park sodas.

When the server arrived carrying the metal pizza stands, the energy in our booth shifted, excitement building like kids on Christmas morning. First came the apizza, followed closely by the more heavily topped pie. The traditional apizza glistened, its sauce shimmering under the light, with just a dusting of cheese, luscious in its simplicity. The combo pie was a bolder display, one half bubbling with melted cheese, the other loaded with hearty toppings. At Roseland, generosity is standard.

Half of the apizza was immediately relocated to the individual plates, and from my first bite, my long-held belief was reaffirmed, Roseland belongs in the conversation for best in the state. Describing the taste is difficult, every bite burst with freshness, the sweet, rich tomato sauce beautifully balanced by the crisp yet tender crust. Then came that subtle hit of grated cheese that tied it all together. Pure heaven.

How would the combo-pie compare, same base, entirely different expectations? First, the cheese slice. The melted cheese added a creamy richness that transformed the flavor profile without overwhelming it. Again, perfection. Could the meat-laden slice compare? Chunks of sausage covered nearly every inch, with the thin pepperoni slices peeking out around the edges. The sausage was classic Italian, a medium spice, a smidgen of fennel and wonderfully hearty, while the pepperoni sneakily added just a touch of additional spiciness. The first bite also confirmed that Roseland’s pizzas were beyond fantastic, they were flawless compositions.

Overall, two pies, three flavors, one conclusion, Roseland Apizza is not only great pizza, it is also a significant part of Connecticut’s rich pizza history. It’s not flashy nor trendy, just pure, time-honored craftsmanship and a genuine sense of community. Every pie has been perfected over generations, reminding everyone why Connecticut’s pizza heritage is second to none.

One visit and you’ll also understand why Roseland’s fans keep coming back decade after decade.

350 Hawthorne Ave.

Derby, CT 06418

(203) 735-0494