Blackbird (New Canaan) – You Gotta Get There

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It’s been a while since a new restaurant opened in New Canaan, so I was very excited when I heard that the much-anticipated Blackbird opened a few doors down from its sister restaurant Solé. After the first visit, the food was so spectacular, that I was quick to visit a second time a week late. Spoiler alert – It is already serving some of the best and most creative dishes in Fairfield County.

Blackbird is the newly opened addition of the Z Hospitality Group, which operates numerous, well-established restaurants in the area including Solé, Mediterraneo, Terra and East End. The narrow and long space is akin to the Solé layout, with tables in the front and a long bar and tables once you reach the mid-point. Unlike Solé, the kitchen is not open to full view, but is located behind doors in the rear. The front area serves guests on traditional tables while high-tops are stationed along the left wall in the rear half, which it shares with the long bar on the right. I was initially concerned about the potential for difficulty in hearing (a la Solé) but I was pleasantly surprised that the ambient noise in the front was friendly and the high-tops across from the bar were even better.

During our two visits, I enjoyed several of their newly designed, and expertly prepared dishes.

I ordered two different appetizers on my visits. The first was the Yellow Fin Tuna Noodles served atop tapenade and radish sprouts ($21). The first question…what are “tuna noodles.” If you think of long, square strands of sliced tuna, you’ve nailed it. The kitchen arranges several long strands sitting atop the pureed tapenade, another different interpretation. This Mediterranean-inspired puree delivered a completely different profile than the ever-present Asian tuna tartare that resides on 95% of the local menus. This was a totally different profile, earthy, bright, and rich all in one bite. I was impressed that the chef created a more creative use of the tuna and really liked the combination and it set the stage nicely for the other dishes. 

The other appetizer I ordered was the Amish Chicken Wings with a chili ginger glaze and served with peanuts and scallions ($12). This was a very unusual choice for me, but I am glad I did. The dish included three full wings (both the drums and flats) covered in sticky sauce and finished with peanuts and some sliced scallions. As I gingerly (no pun intended) bit into the first section I was really impressed, they exploded with flavor, not temperature. Thank you to the kitchen as the wings arrived at an edible temperature, not so hot as to incinerate my mouth with bite #1. The sauce had a delightful flavor, with just the right amount of spiciness (I give it a 4-5 on the spice meter) and a ton of Asian influence, and the crunchiness of the peanuts was a great addition. I thought the wings were fantastic.   

For my entrée choices, I went in two totally different directions.

On the first visit, I ordered the Wild Black Sea Bass with pea miso puree, asparagus, and morel mushrooms ($35). What can I say other than the fish, puree and asparagus were beyond spectacular? Blackbird offers a large filet sitting atop pencil-thin charred asparagus and both nestled in the pea puree. Sitting alongside these elements was a few morel mushrooms (one of my favorite varieties). A little dab of the puree and I knew this was going to be special, then a fork through the ultra-crispy skin and into the fish, expectations elevated more, and then the combo. Wow! The fish was perfectly prepared and with the puree, created an out-of-this-world combo. The asparagus added even more flavors. While I was extremely excited with the prospect of the morels, they were the one disappointment. Unfortunately, they absorbed a lot of the vinegar in the sauce, they lost all their earthy goodness. Overall, this was one of the best fish dishes I have eaten in quite some time.

If you have been following my decade of Fairfield County dining, you know I am a sucker for a good burger. When I saw Blackbird’s interpretation of the Double Bacon Smash® Burger on the menu, it was like magnets of opposite polarity, gotta get connected. The Blackbird Smash Burger includes onions, mushrooms, melted Gruyere cheese, baconaisse & pickled tomato ($25). All of my faves were encased in a sesame seed bun, Blackbird created an amazing new combination to this century-old burger tradition. Start with a couple of seared patties, and first take a few cues from French onion soup with the addition of soft, caramelized onions and melted Gruyere cheese. It was a great idea, but what about some mushrooms, yeah that should add some earthy qualities, but you also need some lettuce and tomato, not just a simple slice of tomato, Blackbird went to the left by adding a slice of pickled tomato. And if that was not enough, let’s throw some bacony mayo on the bun. It must have been as much fun to create as it was to eat. It was one of my favorite combinations in a long time, thank you.  Blackbird also added some fries on the side in the New Canaan-approved silver chalice. To say I liked the burger would be an understatement.

We also ordered a few desserts for the table to share. The big hit was the Japanese Donuts with lemon curd and strawberry sauce. Five golf-ball-sized orbs were accompanied by a small dish of lemon curd and strawberry sauce. Everyone can decide on the level and combination of flavors… the naked donuts were delicious and with each added topping, they became even better. The donuts were a great ending to the meal.

After only a short time, Blackbird has elevated itself to one of the best in New Canaan. The vibe was great, the acoustics allowed for table conversation, and the food was over the top delicious. So glad there is another great restaurant in New Canaan.

Some Great Eats @The Corner (Litchfield)

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We finally made it to @The Corner in Litchfield. It is located at the eastern end of the town green at the corner (no surprise) of West St. and South St. just a couple of doors up from the post office. There are two rooms, one a dining room and the other a bar with several tables. At mid-day, it was about 30% full, with numerous locals having lunch. 

The lunch menu is mostly sandwiches, creative burgers, and a few salads. We were not sure what to order and we went for two of their basic offerings. 

I chose the GOCHUJANG CHICKEN ($16), which was crispy buttermilk fried chicken thigh, kimchee cucumbers, sweet & sour cabbage, gochujang honey & sesame aioli. The chicken was perfectly fried (I like the thigh much better than the breast) to a crispy exterior while maintaining a moist interior. Then I tasted the toppings. I absolutely loved the combination. Between the sweet, spicy, crunchy interplay it was not only a delicious sandwich but a great sandwich. The entire dish had such great complexity and just the right level of spiciness. While the roll could handle all the ingredients, I found it easier to enjoy with a knife and fork. I give the sandwich an 8. 

As a side, I had to order the ONION RINGS ($8), which were beer battered and served with corner sauce. @The Corner does not skimp on this side dish, not a mere 4-5 rings, but closer to a baker’s dozen, and we were glad they gave us such a nice-sized portion. These rings were delicious, from the sweetness and soft interior to the perfectly crispy exterior. The corner sauce was a great complement with just a hint of spice. Best onion rings in quite some time, I give them a 9.

My wife was not in the mood for a burger or sandwich, so she decided to order a small plate of SMOKED SALMON LATKES ($17), which were crisp potato pancakes topped with chive creme fraiche, smoked salmon, crispy capers & beet pickled red onions. There are two methods to make potato latkes, one with a grater and one with a ricer, @The Table uses the latter, which makes for a much denser latke. Both of us found these much too dense. It would also have benefitted from more onion. While the flavor was pretty good, it was not to our liking, and I can only give a 2.

@The Corner is a great place to relax during the day in one of our favorite towns, Litchfield. My recommendation is to stick to the core of the menu, the burgers, sandwiches, and fries. The fried chicken and onion rings were both delicious, and I would highly recommend both.

Community Table (New Preston) – Magnificent Food in a Wonderful Locale

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I’ve heard so much about Community Table (affectionately known at CT) in New Preston, CT, over the years that when my college roommate texted me and asked if we wanted to join him and his husband for dinner, I was ecstatic. 

The drive through the rolling hills of Washington Township, and through the tranquility of Litchfield county took about 40 minutes. The exterior of CT is very non-descript, a simple white building, with a minimalist “CT” sign, and the interior was a throwback colonial bar feeling with beams and lots of wood. We entered the bar area, where we were greeted by a wonderful woman, who took our jackets and escorted us to the back dining room, where under twenty guests would enjoy the magnificent cuisine. Our server arrived, gave us a warm welcome and we looked to begin our evening.

We started with the House-Made Six Grain Sourdough Bread and sea salted butter ($12). One bite and I knew this was going to be a special night. The bread had a wonderful, moist texture, full of flavor and the butter was salted perfectly. It was so special that on our subsequent visit, we bought a second loaf to go.

Throughout this dinner and our subsequent visit a week later, we enjoyed some spectacular cuisine.

My wife ordered the Local Portobello Mushroom Soup with pepitas and orange gremolata, with a drizzle of balsamic reduction ($17). The version presented by CT was one of, if not the best, mushroom soups anywhere. The umami of the mushrooms was fully evident, and the texture was smooth as silk, with an incredible earthiness. One would think that there was cream in the soup, but not a trace, only emulsified mushrooms to create the silky texture. This is easily a 10+.

I opted for a half order of the homemade Bucatini All’ Amatriciana, prepared with preserved San Marzano tomatoes, guanciale, Aleppo pepper, and Pecorino Romano cheese ($24). Let’s begin with the pasta, prepared to perfection and the appetizer-sized option was good portion. It was topped with a rich tomato sauce, which benefited both from the quality and the preserved process, plus some chunks of the guanciale and smothered in the grated Pecorino. Given the All’ Amatriciana description, I was a little concerned about the spice level, but there was barely a kick in the sauce. Instead, it was spectacular in tomato lusciousness, and I was glad they offered a spoon, so I could enjoy every, last bite. This was also easily a 10+.

I am a huge fan of duck, so I decided to order the Five Spice Pekin Duck Breast, Cortland apple puree, radicchio, and red wine duck jus ($39). (Pictured above) Two large strips of rare duck breast sat atop the large portion of radicchio. The server poured the duck jus around the dish, and I found the puree hidden beneath the radicchio. The duck was tender, succulent, and rich in flavor, it was superbly prepared to the lighter side of medium rare. The key to this dish was the Cortland apple puree, it brought all the great duck flavors to the forefront. The jus was a great counterbalance to the apple sweetness. The radicchio added a certain tartness to the dish. It is easy to give this dish a 10+.

My wife ordered the Bincho Grilled Lemon Garlic Marinated Head-On Prawns, ancho chili, stone ground cheddar cheese grits, and scallions ($42). Four large prawns grilled on Bincho high-heat grill sat atop the grits and the kitchen was kind enough to separate the heads from the bodies. The prawns offered a very mild spiciness from the ancho chili rub, and the cheddar cheese grits were better than anything I ate while living in Georgia. This was another 10 dish.

It was such a great evening that my wife and I decided to return a week later. We again asked for the back room, looking for some quiet time. With four 2-tops lined along the wall, we understood the term community table. All eight of us engaged in interspersed conversation at times while we each focused on our individual dinner partner at other times. 

On the second visit, I started with the Black Sea Bass Crudo, with shaved fennel, grapefruit, and chives ($21). If you are looking for a refined dish to open your palate for the rest of the evening, this is an excellent option. A large portion of thinly sliced sea bass filled the plate and was topped with grapefruit segments and thinly sliced fennel circles. Droplets of spiced oil and a few strands of dill finished the dish. The combination of flavors and textures was refreshing, delicious, and completely satisfying. Like most of the dishes at CT, the guest can decide on various combinations from a single element to all of the components. I would rate this dish a 9-10.

On this second visit, I decided to order a slightly heavier entrée, the Berkshire House Smoked Pork Chop with celery root puree, charred broccolini, and a mole poblano ($44). Two concentric circles with the mole portion surrounding the celery root puree were flanked by a large, sliced pork chop on one side and the charred broccolini on the other. The first bite was the pork chop was very good but needed something to balance the flavor. the addition of the mole and puree was required to appreciate the vision of the chef. Each bite was smoky, creamy, spicy, and sweet. The charred broccolini added another sweet component, and was sweet and the ever-so-slight char added a nice depth. I give this dish a 9.

As I mentioned in other articles, there is sometimes a weak link, and for CT it was the Chocolate Tres Leche Cake with burnt local cream ($16). We ordered on both visits, not believing our palate on the first. The cake was dense, dry, and not very chocolatey (the opposite of our expectations with a tres leche cake) and the icing was a bland rendition. I was hoping for a delightfully light and moist ending, but it was not to my liking. I will not rank this cake.

Why we waited so long to venture to CT still shocks me, the food was remarkable, the service impeccable, and the management was over-the-top friendly and inviting on both of our visits. A great job by all.

BLDG (New Haven) – The Food is Spectacular

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I’ve driven by the building hundreds of times in the last 45 years and had absolutely no idea it was designed by one of the greatest architects of the 20th century, Marcel Breuer, one of the famous Harvard 5. Commissioned by the Armstrong Rubber, I knew it as the Pirelli Tire HQ, sitting on the northern side of I-95 across from the food trucks and on the same campus as Ikea. You all know the building from its exterior, the interior is now a Hilton, and hidden within the lobby floor is some of the best food in New Haven county…served at BLDG. 

Overseeing the kitchen is former Hell’s Kitchen finalist, Megan Gill, whose door did not open on the last night of Season 20, “Young Guns,” while the winner Trenton Garvey’s did. After a quick stop in Texas at a high-end country club Megan moved to CT and I am glad she did, the food is spectacular. The space is more hotel breakfast diner than upscale chic, but make no mistake about it, the food is way up the sophistication scale. 

We started with a shared MARINATED OLIVES with garlic, lemon, orange peel, and herbs.

$8. I rarely rave about a bowl of olives, but these were special. They were soft, full of flavor, and completely infused with a good level of citrus-ness. This was a great start to the meal. I give them a 9.

For my entrée, I chose the NE FISH & CHIPS, described as Massachusetts skate, house fries, malt vinegar, and lemon ($26). I am a big fan of skate and just a big a fan of fish & chips. When I saw this combo, it was a gotta-have. And I am glad I did. The breading was perfect, lightly coated and then flash fried. The result was a complete crisp-moist combo between the exterior and the interior. The skate was a fantastic choice by the chef. This was easily a 10. The fish sat atop a huge mound of seasoned fries. If there was one small nit to the dish, the bay seasoning that covered the fries was just a little too much, I would have preferred a lighter touch.

While not on the paper menu, one of the specials for the evening was Sesame Noodles with peanut sauce. If the server lets you know it is available on your visit, you absolutely must order. While the server mentioned that a protein can be placed atop, go naked with the dish. The noodles were spectacular and the dressing even better. The peanut sauce had just a touch of spiciness. This is easily a 10+.

Back on the menu was the TRUFFLE RISOTTO ($10). As a big fan of risotto and add another fave, the truffles, it was an easy choice to include as a shared dish. Everyone was “give me more” on the risotto, one in the party thought it was even better than the noodles, sorta a how high is up argument. The rice was perfectly cooked with just a little resistance, a little gooey-ness from the cheese, and then the flavors kicked in and they were fantastic. This was the second 10+ appetizer for the table.

Almost every meal has a weak link, and it was unanimous that the MUSHROOMS was the unfortunate member in that category on our visit. Whether the kitchen lost focus when prepared or the item was still in beta mode, this was a plate of chopped and sauteed mushrooms, full stop. No one at the table thought they were in the same league as the rest of the dishes. Unfortunately, I can only give a 1 for this dish, with the hope that the kitchen was focused elsewhere when it was preparing.

Dessert time rolled in, and we opted for two of them. The big winner was the APPLE GALETTE, prepared with NY honeycrisp apples, and caramel sauce, and served a la mode ($12). the pastry chef nailed the galette. I was very surprised by the size, it was a very large portion, contrary to the current downsizing approach to many desserts. The crust was buttery, and crispy and was a great canvas for the apples. The choice of honeycrisp was a great idea and the caramel sauce was a wonderful accompaniment. I give this an easy 10.

On the other hand, the CHOCOLATE LAVA CAKE ($12) with house-made whipped cream and fresh berries was a distant second. While many restaurants serve this as a cake on a plate, BLDG serves their lava cake still in the ramekin, which was more lava than cake. While the flavors were incredibly rich and chocolatey, it was more of a wonderful chocolate accompaniment for the whipped cream and berries. I can only give this a 6.

When we saw the space, we were a little skeptical, but when the food started descending onto the table the elevation of excellence soared. The noodles, the risotto, and the fish & chips were all perfect and then to conclude with the perfect galette made for a wonderful dinner.

Domenick & Pia – Great Pizza Find in Waterbury

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I gotta go to the DMV…

In the old days, you would have packed lunch, dinner, and possibly an overnight bag. Now, you make an appointment online, show up, check-in, bam, boom, out in under 30 minutes, total. So when I recently scheduled my visit, I chose a lunchtime appointment so I could combine it with seeking out a hidden gem in Waterbury. And this time I finally found one…Domenick & Pia Downtown Pizzeria.

Domenick and Pia is located at 3 Brook St. around the corner from the Palace Theatre and the University of Connecticut (Waterbury) and has served pizza to the local community for over 50 years. Any place that successfully thrived and survived through those economic swings of Waterbury has something to offer. To say Domenick and Pia is a hole in the wall would be an understatement. While the exterior reflects the recent gentrification of this small part of Waterbury, walk through the doors and whoosh, back to the 1970s. The general ambiance of the interior is probably reflecting its grand opening with Formica-topped and wood-trimmed tables, push-on prices reminiscent of the side-of-the-road hamburger stands, red plastic trays to carry your pick-up order to the table, the whole nine yards. My guess is the original pie-price was under $2, with a 25-cent slice-price. There is no glamour, no TVs, no beer, just good old-fashioned pizza, a couple of hot oven grinders, a ton of drink options, and one of the most pleasant staff imaginable. To succeed with this formula, the pizza better be really good. Mission accomplished.

I ordered two slices from the young lady, one sausage and the other pepperoni…”let me throw those in the oven to make them perfect again.” Over my right shoulder I heard, “Throw a second sausage on that tray.” Obviously a regular and normal SOP, very cool.

She collected my $5 for the two slices, placed the plastic tray on the counter added a few napkins and I waited for my hot slices to…emerge…received…a little walk to a cleared table and a few photos. The slices looked very good, and my next step was to look at the underside. It was really well done, a nice brown with no burns, and it felt a little crunchy.

Now the test, and that first bite sets the stage, and the third bite is the litmus test (yes it is the third, NOT the first bite of a pizza slice that counts). I went with the pepperoni (it was closer) and the first bite brought a smile. The price may be 10X from when Domenick and Pia opened, but the pizza immediately transported me to those childhood days of eating pizza. The crust was crisp, had some great tomato sauce (probably housemade), the cheese was just the right flavor and amount, and the pepperoni gave a nice kick without too much spiciness. Major pass on bite #1. After two more bites, this slice passed all the tests, it was great.

Onto the sausage slice. My preference is for chunks of sausage versus slices, Domenick and Pia chose the latter. Bite #1 on the sausage side was also a pleasant surprise. The sausage was very good, not perfect but really, really good. I like a little more fennel and chunks, but for sliced sausage, it was almost perfect. And given the crust, sauce, and cheese combo, it was a great slice.

As I was leaving I decided to return and thank the person behind the counter who I thought was the owner. When I complimented him and the pizza, he called for his mother from the back and said this was all her doing. So there I was thanking the founder/matriarch and the son who has kept this Waterbury tradition alive for over fifty years. My hat’s off to the founder, the son, the staff, and the pizza. It was a great find for some incredible slices.

Domenick and Pia

3 Brook St.

Waterbury, CT 06702

(203) 753-3401

https://www.domenickpiadowntownpizzeria.com

Olea (New Haven) is Worth the Visit

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Our first venture to Olea in New Haven was a delightful experience, with a couple of outstanding dishes and one I did not enjoy. 

As you approach the restaurant via your GPS, take note, as there is very little flare to the exterior, a nice, simple entrance on the right side of the street. Once inside, you will enjoy a refined, yet vibrant decor, tables to the left and in the rear, which share its space with a large bar area, fully alive with patrons. We were lucky to have a great table in the middle of the room.

We started with two appetizers, the Tuna Tartare ($18), described as yellowfin tuna, tomato, ginger, soy sauce, sesame seeds, aioli, crispy wonton and the Pulpo ($17), which was Spanish octopus a la plancha, potato foam, celery, sweet piquillo pepper, tomato, capers, and paprika.

The tuna tartare was a nice mound of chopped tuna with a few wontons on the side. The tuna was fresh, fragrant and benefitted from a mild soy sauce accompaniment. It was a great start to the evening and I give it a good solid 9. The Octopus was one large tentacle with an enormous amount of foam. The small end of the tentacle was vastly overcooked, the thicker end was much better. I basically left the skinny end of the tentacle and really enjoyed the other end. The foam was more a stew of ingredients. I liked the potato aspect of the foam, but not as much a fan of the grape tomatoes that was a detriment to the dish. I give the pulpo dish an 8

For my entrée, I ordered the Scallops ($35), which were pan seared scallops, cauliflower, potato, ají amarillo, puffed quinoa, bell pepper-mango vinaigrette. The five scallops were medium sized, seared on one side with a stringy texture and not exceptionally flavorful, lacked succulence, and were very disappointing. They sat atop a molded (cauliflower) cake with the first bite overwhelmingly citrusy. The sauce was very nice and there were numerous textures with the diced veggies and puffed quinoa. Given the disappointment of the scallops and the way too citrussy cauliflower cake, I can only give this dish a 5.

Looking to rally after the scallops, we ordered the Chocolate Textures ($14) for dessert. This included a chocolate mousse-vanilla ice cream sandwich, milk chocolate rice crispy, chocolate-hazelnut ice cream, nougatine, white chocolate soup (spoiler alert, this contains alcohol). The dessert was the major hit of the evening. I started with the ice-cream sandwich, and it was delicious, and then moved to the crispy, which was even better. The single scoop of ice cream was also delicious. This was a complete homerun at a 10

In addition to the ordered items above, Olea also offers bread, which was very good, as well as a small potato croquette pre-dinner which was also good.

I had very high hopes for Olea. Some dishes were excellent, but on the next visit I will definitely avoid the scallops.

Great Burger in Oxford at Sitting Duck Tavern

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Cheeseburger, cheeseburger, Pepsi, Pepsi. 

What is the fascination with cooked ground meat placed between a couple of slices of bread? From Germany to Ohio to New Haven, the simple ground beef sandwich has exploded from its plebian beginnings to a cult following, with the USDA estimating that Americans consume 50,000,000,000 (that’s 50 billion) burgers per year. 

And the burger ain’t what it used to be over 150 years ago; you can now grill it…fry it…smoke it…griddle it…steam it…smash it? One type of meat…two…three…four? Loose grind, course grind? Mustard, ketchup, lettuce, tomato, cheese, bacon, pickles, avocado, onions…on and on? If you do the math there are thousands of combinations. And then the doneness decision on rare, medium-rare, medium and don’t get me started.

Years ago, I ate close to 150 burgers a year in pursuit of the best in CT. Now I am a little wiser, I look for the needle in the haystack, the place where you can go with friends and enjoy a consistent and delicious burger. And the place that has delivered the consistency of the medium-rare bacon cheeseburger can be found in none other than The Sitting Duck Tavern in the Quarry Walk in Oxford (there are two other locations in Stratford and Trumbull). Each time I visit, it is a mouth-watering delight.

The Duck is a local place. On any day you will find families, dates, da guys, GNOs (that’s girls’ night out), and locals just shooting the breeze, grabbing one of sixteen beers on tap, watching the games, having some special family time. Seating options include booths, tables, in front of the fireplace or a stool at the bar, plus a patio, enough for 150 guests.

My go-to meal is the burger. There are three pre-determined options, the Sitting Duck Burger with lettuce and tomato (served with or without cheese), the Tavern Burger, a Chipotle spiced patty with house-made “bacon jam”, lettuce, tomato, and Vermont cheddar, and the Cadillac Burger with BBQ sauce, a cheddar blend, bacon, chipotle ranch, sitting atop a handful of fronions. I view these as guidance and The Duck has no issue with a mix-and-match audible.

After careful research and numerous adjustments, I highly recommend the following off-the-menu combo, the Sitting Duck Burger with American cheese, bacon, and here’s the twist…add the bacon jam, ordered medium rare. The patty is a large 8-ounce from Pineland Farms, a perfectly seasoned and lightly compressed gem. The kitchen nails the temperature absolutely every time, with a good hard sear on the outside and a darkish pink on the interior. The American cheese works perfectly with all burgers, and the cheese on this version is no exception, melted and gooey. The Duck is generous with the bacon, with three thick, smoky rashers crisscrossed on top. One bite and you gain the full sense of the smokiness from the cooking. And then there is the bacon jam, which adds a touch more smokiness and a tang of sweetness. All these are encased in a super puffy hamburger roll. This combo stands on its own, no mustard or ketchup is required. 

I’d be remiss if I omitted the last bit of advice, order the regular fries. They are slightly thicker than traditional shoestrings, seasoned just right, and a quick dip in the ketchup will add to the full burger and fries experience. 

Overall, The Duck offers a bunch of options for everyone in the family. But for this burger lover, having this local place that offers this level of deliciousness is fantastic.

360 Center Rock Green

Oxford, CT 06478

(203) 941-5141

https://www.sittingducktavern.com

Meraki – A Hidden Gem in Litchfield

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As you travel through the rolling hills of Litchfield County, you are mesmerized by its beauty, the intertwining of scenic farms, silos and barns dating back hundreds of years nestled amongst wineries, with their vines reminding you of the connection to the land. Surrounding the bucolic town of Litchfield, the gastronomic options are staggering, from brilliant Italian, to farm-to-table dinners that will satisfy your wildest culinary desires to glorious ice cream. About a mile west of the Litchfield common sits a small, unassuming, side of the road, hidden gem, Meraki, serving some of the boldest combinations I have tasted in quite some time. 

When you first enter Meraki, it reminds you of a local coffee shop, air pots of coffee, a large variety of pastries from scones to brownies to numerous gluten-free options. Lift your eyes above the ordering counter to the chalkboard menu, and you will see how Meraki has elevated the breakfast experience, with fifteen different hot coffee/tea options and a dozen cold plus shots and a variety of “milks.” Taking center stage on that chalkboard are the breakfast options, from a simple egg sandwich to a breakfast burrito. I smiled as I read that the “Healthy Plate” included an over-easy egg, cheese, bacon and avocado. As I approached the young lady to order, she was quick to point to the other chalkboard on the right wall that described another fourteen “All Day Café” offerings, then she handed me a paper menu that included even more enticing choices. Needless to say, Meraki has something for everyone.

After I ordered my three sandwiches, I sat amongst a few other lucky patrons at one of the seven small tables (there is also a large patio for warmer times). This is a local haunt, a couple of high school students enjoying a wrap and some tik-tok banter, an elderly couple out for a mid-day meal and a few local ladies sharing tea, soup and salads, the vibe was relaxed, inviting and pleasant. The excitement began when the food arrived. 

The highlight of the visit was the Meraki Porchetta, it was possibly the best breakfast sandwich I have ever eaten, taking the mainstream bacon, egg and cheese to a whole, new level. It included a local fried egg, spicy house kimchi, a slice of tomato, with sriracha aioli, all served on a house-made brioche. Where to begin is easy…the dish’s name points to its star, the porchetta. It was crispy, a touch of saltiness and a smoky flavor for the ages. While the porchetta was the star of the show, the supporting cast performed just as admirably. The egg and cheese were fantastic, rich, creamy and the sandwich would have been a winner stopping with these three traditional ingredients, but let’s add some heat, not one type, but two. The sriracha aioli and spicy kimchi both kicked this sandwich to the hall of fame, and then the tomato added a sweet complement. In case it did not come across, the Meraki Porchetta alone, is worth the trip. A solid 10++ 

The Coffee Rubbed Burger was very good, a nice sized patty that was joined inside a brioche by bacon, tomato, Swiss cheese, Meraki pickle, crunchy shallot, lettuce, and mayo. The burger was mild in flavor and tightly packed. The kitchen did a great job of getting a good sear on the exterior, but it was cooked a little more than my requested medium rare. Now onto the other ingredients, which added the required balance to the burger, and that was the key to this burger, balance. Meraki really knows how to add a creamy element to its sandwiches, in this case the melted Swiss cheese and mayo. The cheese added almost a Gruyere nuttiness and the mayo was a wonderful smoothing element. Different from the other two sandwiches, the burger avoided spice, adding just a little tang from the pickle. The lettuce was a good hearty variety, which I appreciated, and the sweet tomato was a welcome addition. I would give this burger a solid 7.  

Nestled next to the burger was a small serving of the Apple Beet Salad. While I am usually looking for some great fries with my burger, I figured what the heck and tasted, and I am glad I did. These were fantastic, tender, and more importantly, sweet as sugar. This salad was another 10.

The last sandwich was the Korean Chicken Sandwich with Gochujang BBQ sauce, avocado, kimchi, lettuce, sriracha aioli and served on a Ciabatta. The flavors in the sandwich were over the top bold and flavorful, the BBQ sauce was superb and with the kimchi and the sriracha aioli, created a long-tailed spice from each bite. Sadly, the chicken was very overcooked, chewy to the point of difficult to eat and there was a scant amount of avocado, which would have tempered the spiciness. I can only give this sandwich a 5 (easily elevated to an 8-9 if the chicken was more tender), but willing to give it another chance in the future.

Given the experience with the apples and beets, I was absolutely going to taste the Soba Noodles that accompanied the chicken. Wow, these were over the top. Another 10 for this side dish.

Overall, I was very impressed with Meraki. The Meraki Porchetta was perfection, the sides were incredible, when the Korean chicken is cooked properly, it would be in the same category as the porchetta, and the balance of the burger was spot on. I kick myself for not buying a bunch of the sides to take home to enjoy. Discovering Meraki in the countryside of Litchfield County was a true find and a hidden gem. 

Bully Boy (O4W) – Great Vibe, Some Great Options

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We arrived and the first item we notice was the incredibly cool vibe. This place was alive with energy.

We were escorted to the rear and a large round table. As a head’s up, the entire party needs to be present before seating, but hanging at the bar is fun. While this was a great location for conversation, the table was just too large for four people (really a 6-top) and we asked for a smaller, more intimate table and the hostess was quick to oblige.

The server informed us that everyone on the staff have been there since the beginning, a good sign. She knew the menu very well, made recommendations, and suggested we order in stages, which we did. For the first phase we ordered the snapper tartare, the yellow fin tuna wraps and the Virginia oyster sliders. She informed us that the sliders and the tuna wraps were served as a group of three and since as a group of four, we asked if they could make four versus three. She told us they could not. Huh? I just do not understand why restaurants, who have created a sharing menu, do not align the number of items on the plate to the number of guests at the table. The kitchen cannot fry eight instead of six oysters, cannot make four instead of three beds of lettuce and scoops of tartare? But they decided that they would not comply with this simple request. Maybe it is a POS system limitation…then change the POS. Rant over.

Back to the food. The first round had two outstanding dishes and one that was disappointing.

The Florida Red Snapper Tartare was served with red onion, cilantro and leche de tigre (a Peruvian marinade). Everyone at the table loved this dish. The fish was fresh and the flavors of the marinade were wonderfully outrageous. I would rate this a 10.

The Yellow Fin Tuna Wraps were served on a bed of Bibb lettuce and accompanied with dashi aioli, smoked peanuts and yuzu pickles. Again, everyone in our group loved this dish. It was very different from the tartare, with the peanuts offering a great crunchiness and the aioli a lightened creaminess. Make sure you squeeze some of the lime wedge onto the dish, really kicks up the flavor profile. I would give this a 10.

The Virginia Oyster Sliders were served on a soft roll with lettuce, tomato, pickle and datil pepper aioli. We were all somewhat disappointed in this dish. While visually appealing, the centerpiece of the dish, the two fried oysters, lacked anything other than fried coating. The other ingredients were great but it did not give any oyster flavor, whatsoever. Because of the lack of true oyster-ness I can only give this a 4.

For phase two we ordered three additional items.

The Roasted Mushroom Empanada was served atop a black garlic aioli. The first item you should note is the tense in the title. This is a single empanada, sliced in half and nestled in the aioli. Given our request for four items in phase one, we were somewhat surprised our server did not mention this was one empanada, we were now four people sharing one empanada. Be careful and let the empanada cool, as it arrives with a piping hot mushroom filling. While the mushrooms were very good, they were scant in ratio to the breading. The half of a half I ate was was pretty good, but could have been so much better if there was more filling and less coating. I will give this a 6.

We asked that if the Crispy Brussels Sprouts could be prepared without bacon and they could. They were tossed in a spicy Thai sauce and served with a slice of lime. Even without the bacon, these were very good, while I thought they were a little on the burnt side. A few seconds less in the fryer would have been my preference. Even with that I would give this a 6.

The Blue Crab Fried Rice was served as an Omurice Omelet, with a drizzled Thai lime Nam Jim sauce. While others at the table thought this was great I thought it lacked continuity. The omelet is supposed to “explode” when sliced, creating a visual wonder, ours was merely soft cooked eggs. The crab rice was overly-ladened with scallions or onions and the sauce overwhelmed everything. This was a great idea, but the flavors did not work at all together. I can only give this a 4.

While this review gives somewhat disappointing aspects to some of the dishes, I will absolutely return to Bully Boy. It just felt the kitchen lost a little focus during the prep stage. The ideas and creativeness were evident, the execution just needed a little work. Most importantly if you brand yourself as a tapas-style sharing restaurant, make sure you have the flexibility to allow the guests to share full portions of each plate.

St. Cecelia (Buckhead) – Reaffirmed as Fantastic

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Our latest visit to St. Cecelia confirmed my earlier opinion that it is one of the best restaurants in Atlanta and our last visit was an anomaly. The meal and service were fantastic.

Let’s start with the space, one of the prettiest around, with 25-foot ceilings, romantic lighting, banquettes, tables and a private room on the second floor. You can choose from two dining areas, either near or away from the bar and open kitchen.

We started the meal with a Large Salumi and Cheese platter, which included Prosciutto di San Danielle, Cacciatorini and Calabrese meats, plus Manchego and Thomasville Tomme cheeses. Included on the platter were honeycomb, fig mostarda, and gnocco fritto. The large was true to its name with three piles of meats and enough cheese segments to pair with the meats. The cured meats ranged from the mild prosciutto to the spicy calabrese and addind a bit of the honeycomb created a delightful sweet-spicy combination. I would have liked little more honeycomb, it was really good.

BurattaWe followed the meats with the Burrata, served with strawberries, atop crumbled pistachios and two thin slices of sourdough bread. While the meat-cheese platter was abundant, the burrata dish was scant. It was more the burrata was one of three components versus the center-staged star. The three items together created a wonderful flavor-texture delight.

Pasta w SeafoodFor my entrée I ordered the Squid Ink Mafaldini with Calabrian chilies, charred calamari, clams, and shrimp. Mafaldini is best described as the curly edges of the lasagna noodle. The dish was delicious and the amount of seafood was focused on the calamari and shrimp with a few clams added, which I was fine with. The pasta did have a bit of a zip to it from the chilies, which I really enjoyed.

My wife ordered the Spaghetti Grosso, a simple pasta with San Marzano tomatoes, basil, and smoked ricotta salata. While the pasta was great and the sauce rich in flavor, it was a little on the salty side.

ArtichokesFor side dishes we enjoyed both the Asparagus with almonds and the Artichokes with salsa verde, the latter being our favorite.

Service was spot on from beginning to end.

I am back to recommending St. Cecelia as a great restaurant in Buckhead.